Kupe Sites: A photographic journey Ngā wāhi a Kupe: He Haerenga Whakaahua

A thousand years ago, the great voyager Kupe made an epic journey from the eastern Pacific across the ocean to a new land.

Many traces remain of Kupe’s encounter with our land, which would much later be called New Zealand. They can be found in the names of landmarks in various parts of the country, and even in one of its names – Aotearoa

Aotearoa.

These evocative images of important Kupe sites are just a few of the 36 images produced as part of the exhibition Kupe Sites, developed for touring to venues across Aotearoa.

Kupe and his stories are of immense importance to the many iwi who trace their whakapapa

whakapapa back through him. The stories of his arrival in Aotearoa vary, but they all celebrate a remarkable voyager who settled a new land, and charted a route across the Pacific for later navigators to follow.

Kupe sailed through the Pacific, arriving at the north-western tip of the new land, where the waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea surge and mix together.

Papaki tu ana nga tai (The clashing oceans) Cape Reinga, Northland, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007214/04)
Hokianga Harbour was Kupe’s first landing place in Aotearoa, and the site where he rested before continuing his journey. Local iwi (tribes) recount how Kupe planted kūmara and taro – the first time they were grown in this country.

The tidal water of the creek provided him with a plentiful supply of kanae (mullet fish). The name Pākanae (fish trap), a settlement south of Hokianga, comes from the kanae that Kupe trapped in the creek flowing into the harbour.

Pa-kanae (Fish trap) Hokianga, Northland, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (O.026937)
Many iwi (tribes) tell the story of Kupe setting out from his homeland of Hawaiki in pursuit of Te Wheke-a-Muturangi, a giant octopus. The wheke was the pet of Muturangi, a tohunga (ritual expert) from Hawaiki. Kupe’s pursuit of the wheke carried him along the rocky coastline of Wairarapa.

At Rangiwhakaoma (Castlepoint), the wheke fled into a cave, perhaps to lay her eggs or hide. Kupe followed and fought the wheke, but she escaped.

Rangi-whakaoma (Castlepoint), Wairarapa, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007216/05)
Other stories of Kupe tell of his prowess as a builder of waka (canoes). At Cape Palliser, Kupe and his tohunga (ritual expert), Ngake, had a waka-building competition. Kupe was the winner, finishing his waka first, while Ngake failed to complete the task. The Aorangi Range symbolises the upturned hulls of the waka, while the sheer cliffs overlooking the sea represent the sails.

Ngā Waka-a-Kupe (Kupe’s canoes), Cape Palliser, Wairarapa, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007216/09)
Many place names across Aotearoa commemorate Kupe’s family. The story of Kupe’s grief at his daughter’s departure to the South Island is recorded in the name Te Mātakitaki-a-Kupe (the gazing place of Kupe). Kupe would stand on this point, grieving, as he looked south in the direction she had travelled.

Te Mātakitaki-a-Kupe (The gazing place of Kupe), Cape Palliser, Wairarapa, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007216/04)
The names of landmarks in and around Te Whanganui-a-Tara (Wellington Harbour) and on Wellington’s west coast tell the stories of Kupe’s sojourn there. Te Whanganui-a-Tara provided shelter, food, and a place to repair waka (canoes) damaged by pursuing and battling with the wheke (octopus).

Whanga-nui-a-Tara (Wellington Harbour) towards Raukawa Moana (Cook Strait) from Breaker Bay, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007213/06)
Local iwi (tribes) tell how Kupe named the two islands in Te Whanganui-a-Tara (Wellington Harbour) Matiu and Mākaro after his mokopuna (grandchildren).

Matiu and Mākaro (Somes and Ward Islands) Whanga-nui-a-Tara, (Wellington Harbour), 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007213/07)
Kupe was planning to resume the hunt for the wheke (octopus). In preparation, he is said to have left his family on Mana Island for their own safety. Kupe gave Mana Island the name Te Mana-o-Kupe-ki-Aotearoa. His daughter Mokohuia suggested the name to recognise Kupe’s mana (prestige) as a voyager to Aotearoa.

Te Mana-o-Kupe-ki-Aotearoa (the symbolic presence of Kupe in New Zealand) - Mana Island, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007213/04)
This sculpture beside Te Whanganui-a-Tara (Wellington Harbour) commemorates Kupe’s epic voyage across the waves from the eastern Pacific. It also reflects the words his wife exclaimed on sighting the new land: ‘He ao, he ao, he ao tea, he ao tea roa!’ (A cloud, a cloud, a white cloud, a long white cloud!) Aotearoa became a name for the North Island and, much later, for the whole country.

William Trethewy’s bronze statue on Wellington waterfront of Kupe, his wife Hine te Aparangi, and tohunga (ritual expert) Pekahourangi as they sight Aoteroa, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007213/05)
Kupe and his tohunga (ritual expert), Ngake, pursued the wheke (octopus) across Raukawa Moana (Cook Strait) to Te Whekenui, the swirling waters at the entrance to Tory Channel. There, after a legendary battle, the wheke was killed. Afterwards, Kupe paddled his damaged waka (canoe), Matahourua, towards the closest shore.

It is said that his canoe hit the bluff, causing the pinnacle of the mast to break. The top of this bluff is said to be this broken mast. The sail drapes over the cliff.

Te Taumata-o-Matahourua (the pinnacle of the mast of Matahourua) Parunui-a-whiti (White Bluffs), Wairau Valley, Marlborough, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. CC BY-NC-ND licence. Te Papa (F.007215/09)
In the currents of French Pass, Marlborough Sounds, Kupe’s pet shag broke its wing and became trapped. At low tide, its outstretched wings can be seen in the reef formation.

Te Kawau-a-toru (The pet shag of Kupe) French Pass, Marlborough, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. CC BY-NC-ND licence. Te Papa (F.007215/04)
Eventually Kupe returned to his homeland, Hawaiki. The landmarks of Hokianga record his preparations for departure. He left his son in the form of a taniwha (guardian) for his descendants. At the headlands of Hokianga Harbour, he placed two taniwha to protect the place and its people.

He also dedicated Te Rerenga Wairua (Cape Reinga) as the place of departure for spirits of the dead to return to Hawaiki.

Te Rerenga Wairua (The departing place of the spirits) Cape Reinga, Northland, 2002. Photograph by Michael Hall. Commissioned by Te Papa with Government Capital Grant, 2002. Te Papa (F.007214/01)